While we were in Camarinas, we wanted to take a trip to Santiago de Compostela. The local bus schedule was very clear in terms of the departure times, but otherwise it lacked clarity. I am very experienced in reading timetables and I usually make few mistakes. This time the three of us sat in front of the timetable and understood only the train station.

Bus timetable in Camarinas

We had the impression that a bus went to Santiago de Compostela at 11:00 a.m. The timetable hung from the tourist information, we missed a stop sign. There was no structural indication anywhere (sign, bus shelter, marking on the street) about the stop, and the taxi driver who was just waiting for customers could not help us there. However, we had a reasonable assumption, because on our first day in Camarinas we sat for lunch in one of the restaurants on the waterfront and saw a bus drive off. So we waited around here. With a sluggish 20 minutes delay, the bus also appeared. Unfortunately, the bus driver did not sell us tickets to Santiago, but only to Muxia. We had to change there.

Marina in Muxia

After an hour's drive we came to Muxia. With Sissi we would have driven across the bay and would have been there in 20 minutes. Muxia is very similar to Camarina's buildings. Here, too, old and new buildings mix into a conglomerate of beautiful ugliness. Muxia has an advantage over Camarinas, namely a bus stop with a timetable. There we found that it only continues to Santiago at 2:30 p.m. Rather stupid, because we wanted to go back the same day and also have a look at the place. So we passed the waiting time with a walk through Muxia at the beginning of the siesta.

Central square in the city center

While there are practically no tourists to be seen in Camarinas, there are numerous in Muxia. There seems to be a popular stop on the Way of St. James because there are many hikers as well as cycling pilgrims.

Restaurant “meile” at the beginning of the siesta

Unfortunately I could not take pictures of the weekly market, because the market operators were busy diligently dismantling their market stalls when we arrived. So only the streets and alleys of the village remained for Jens and me.

No bed castles

However, Muxia has been spared the grotesque excesses of mass tourism. Apart from the few hikers, cyclists and sailors who get lost here, there are no tourists. I liked that, everything looks very authentic.


The old buildings must have been around for a few hundred years. The new buildings in between have escaped any approval process by building authorities. The place is very, very similar to Camarina's. In Camarinas maybe everything is built a little more.

Muxia seen from above, Marina in the background

If you run higher and higher, you get a nice overview and see the forests in the background again. I have to mention that, because on my last visit to Spain by motorcycle I was more inland and further south. At that time, Spain seemed like a desert where sand and dust thrive. Everything is green here on the northwest corner, vast forests dominate the landscape between the small villages.

A beach promenade has been built on the western coast of the village. The beach is made of stones. Nevertheless, there are people who dare to go into the water here.

West side

An older man came running from the market with a large bucket of fish waste. He descended the stairs that can be seen here. In doing so, he deceptively realistically imitated the screams of the seagulls, of which there are quite a few like on every coast. Then he emptied the bucket of waste on the stone beach. Word got around among the local seagulls in a fraction of a second and the garbage was disposed of in a brutal noise.

Gull lump on fish waste

I was so fascinated that at first I couldn't think of activating the video camera. Then I thought of it and there is at least a short impression in this little film. The finger over the lens is a bit of a shame. Most of the fish was already eaten, but the noise was still in the air.

Back at the bus stop we saw two dozen pilgrims waiting in the shade for the bus. We expected the bus to be quite full. After further consultation of the timetable on site, we found that it would be impossible for us to get to Santiago de Compostela and back to Camarinas on the same day. So we stopped trying and took a taxi. We were on our way to Vigo anyway, because Christoph wanted to leave us there and get on the plane. In Vigo there is a train connection to Santiago and it runs regularly and we do not have to guess where the train station is. You can recognize train stations better than virtual bus stops.